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On the phone

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris

I have tried, lots of times, to use Spanish Yellow Pages and Directory Enquiries. Usually without success. 

One of the problems is that Spanish phone books are divided geographically but not always consistently. For instance our phone number is listed in Pinoso but that for our next door neighbours is listed in Culebrón - maybe the ten metres makes a difference! And both our listings are incorrect anyway. One reason is because the English and Spanish forename and surname systems are different. As Christopher John Thompson I am listed as Sr. Jhon (sic).

Another problem is that lots of people simply aren't listed at all. They just aren't there.

Yellow Pages seems to be based on the ordinary phone book so it has the same general structure. If you want a plumber then you look under the section for plumbers. Next you have to look under each town or village as well. In Culebrón the local town is Pinoso but if there's not a listing there you have to start going through the nearest towns, Sax, Salinas, Novelda, Monóvar, La Romana, Alguena, Elda, Petrer etc. So it's a lot of flicking back and forth as you search for that elusive plumber. 

The operators at Directory Enquiries don't necessarily live near us. For all I know the call centres are based in Peru or Ecuador - all they have to go on is a database. So, if you ring asking for a plumber in Pinoso and there's nobody listed for Pinoso (remember lots of people aren't) then they too start asking for nearby towns. It can be very wearing.

The online version is better in that it trawls wider so having asked for a plumber in Pinoso it lists almost all the plumbers it can find anywhere. The trouble there is that the numbers are often simply wrong. When I was looking for a solicitor (ages ago) I rang the first six numbers. Four of them were private houses and two were unobtainable. I gave up.

I just checked, there are no plumbers listed for Pinoso in Yellow Pages. I know of three firms personally. That's why the only reliable way to phone someone is to know their number and that's why we collect business cards.

And on email

Most spanish websites, when they are working, have some sort of contact option on them. Usually one of the choices is email. Now I like email because it gives me time to prepare the question in Spanish. The replies too are easier to understand as there is time to study them. Well I suppose they would be except that I've never had a reply so that has to be pure supposition. 

Sometimes the emails yield results. My bank repaid a mistaken charge as the result of an email but they never wrote back or acknowledged receipt of it. In fact, one time I went to the branch about a week after emailing. I asked the chap why he hadn't responded. He looked in his inbox, found my email and said that he never read his emails as he was too busy. 

I had a brief skirmish with my credit card company when they reduced my credit limit drastically without mentioning it and for no good reason. I would email and they would ring me on my mobile. The fact of clicking on the box marked "email" in the section asking how I would like my response never made any difference.

I think that not responding to email has something to do with the Internet still being relatively underused in Spain, something to do with poor customer care, because Spaniards like to talk and because keeping information to yourself seems to be something of a Spanish obsession.
Lots more in a similar vein at  life in culebron and life in cartagena

 


Lost in the desert

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris
Tony believed in God. Not a gentle or kind God. No, Tony's God was the sort of God who would wreak vengeance on the wrongdoers: the men who have sex with men, the foreigners and the ones who believed in the wrong God. Tony was happy with his God, his God always agreed with Tony. He kept Tony safe.

"Cha, Char, Chai! come on stupid, a bloody cup of tea." Tony got his cup of tea and sat down with Chris his driver who had taken the easy option and chosen a can of Mitsubishi peach juice - easy to point at in the cold unit. "Bloody people, speak to them in their own language and they don't understand a word!" The Toyota was parked outside. The Japaneses still hadn't really got the hang of this technology business. Aa solid little vehicle that owed a debt to the tractor designers at John Deere and Massey Ferguson. It was a pick up with proper axles and, rather unusually, a drill on the back. Not a Black and Decker putting up a shelf drill and not a borehole to the centre of the earth drill. Something in between, something to drill a couple of metres into the desert floor to see what was there.

Breakfast done the two climbed aboard and drove across the tar and down the embankment onto the desert proper. "More or less North today, we'll drive 40 kms in and then start digging" - Tony squinted down the compass sight - "Take your direction from that Holoxylon bush there, I'll keep you on bearing - what's the oddometer say?" 

40kms of bumpy but uneventful desert later the Toyota stopped by the side of nothing in particular. Flat, grey, gravelly desert with an odd smattering of little bushes in every direction. Chris climbed out from behind the big steering wheel, set the engine on the drill going and hoisted the rig from its sleeping position to vertical. Once upright out went the stabilisers, he set the auger head turning and gently arranged the whole contraption for digging deep into the sandy gravel. The suspension creaked as the drill lifted the car a few centimetres into the air before the universe reverted to normal and everything settled back in to place. The sun shone, the engine putted and Tony sat on his angler's fold up stool rolling the dirt that came from the auger on a bit of hardboard, spraying it with water from a little bottle to see if it would roll into strips, checking the colour against something like a  Dulux colour chart that featured nothing but greys and browns. He probably knew why. On the radio Radio Tehran, broadcasting in English, was recounting the story of how much it had cost to put out the fire in the mound of dung underneath a sloth in the USA. The sound drifted out into the shimmering stillness. Chris watched absolutely nothing at all happen in the landscape as he occasionally pushed or pulled a lever, pressed a button even. "That's two metres, let's pack up and move on."

Compass bearing 357º was not an enthralling route.  The pick up bounced across the gravel hitting the occasional pothole or bush. Every kilometre or so they stopped. The stool was unfolded, the water bottle readied and the car creaked again. More of the virgin desert was violated and penetrated. A dozen holes was good going. It was just after noon and they'd left the caff at around 6am. The day was warming up nicely.

"One more for good measure?" asked Tony, "May as well, not a lot going on back at the camp." They set off. Chris glanced at the radio. 

The car exploded. 

The fire extinguisher broke loose and smashed the windscreen. The two men left their seats, touched the roof and dropped roughly back into place. The water carrier on the bench seat pirouetted past Chris's knee before settling on the rubber matting by the clutch pedal. It started to drip. A thin veil of dust formed a sparkling curtain as it settled back into new nooks and crannies.

"OK?" "Yeah, I'm OK! - what happened - you OK?" It was only a small gully, maybe 50cms deep. Gravity ensured that the car plunged in but one of Newton's other laws, who can remember which one's which? - that one about a body in motion remaining in motion - came into play too and the Toyota climbed out of the hole almost before it had dropped into it. The engine cut out. The two men clambered out and looked at the truck. Apart from the smashed windscreen it looked fine. The engine started too. But when they tried to drive away it all wobbled and creaked and groaned and complained and wouldn't steer. Standing a few metres in front of the car it was easy to see what was wrong. One wheel was pointing towards Mecca and the other towards New Dehli.

"Looks like we're walking then." "Walking, you are joking, we've got 5 litres of water it's 50ºC and it's nearly 60kms to the road!" "God will take care of us" Expletive deleted, in fact lots of expletives deleted, indeed the two colleagues never ever again spoke civilly to each other. Not even a Christmas card.
For now though they were talking. Sitting by the side of the car and waiting for someone seemed like a good option. Shade. No exertion. Tyres to burn and lots of petrol to set them alight should they need to signal to anyone. But Tony was still for walking.

A magic moment. Chris liked car rallying. His mum sent him the Motoring News each week. Sometimes when he collected it from the Post Office in the nearest town the censor had been through it with a big thick felt tip. You wouldn't think there was a lot to censor in the Motoring News but the censor didn't agree and he obviously enjoyed his job. The censor hadn't touched the report about the East African Safari rally. Someone - Mikkola, Makinen or Aaltonen - he couln't remember - had smashed his car up in practice somewhere on a mud track in Kenya. They'd driven home backwards dragging the injured front wheels behind them.

"We came in on a compass bearing, why can't we go out on one? We've only got 5 litres of water but we've got 25 gallons of petrol. As long as it does more than 2 miles to the gallon we're home free." Tony had a quick consult with the Almighty and agreed the plan. Together they bounced the car about until the tailgate was pointing South, pointing home, going back the way they'd come. Tony sat on the back and shouted when they began to drift off line. They bounced the car into position again. The water was soon gone. Dusk lasts no time in Arabia and night came quickly. Chris's grandad told him that when he was in North Africa, fighting Rommel and bartering his army issue vest for eggs, that it was freezing in the desert overnight. It's true, in December it's chilly but this was springtime. The foxes and gerbils squeaked through the night. Every now and then Chris, or Tony, turned on the headlights just to check that the strange shrieks were nothing more sinsiter than a hedgehog losing the grim battle for life.

It was twenty four hours or so since they'd left the café. A bit longer since they'd eaten. They were both peckish and thirsty. They were tired too and bouncing the car around to keep it on bearing became harder and harder and took longer and longer. They considered just driving backwards, going for it. Eventually they'd bump into the road but, only the other day, they hadn't bothered to follow even a rough compass direction home and the journey that had been 70kms from tarmac into the desert took over 150kms on the way home. Going backwards, dragging the front wheels they may run out of fuel even if they went in a reasonably straight line and anyway with the steering shattered they may end up going in a circle. So it wasn't an option, lifting the front of that car up, lining it up on the bearing and dropping it into position was the only option. It got hotter and hotter. They tried the water in the windscreen washer bottle and in the radiator of the drill rig. At first their urine had been quite palatable but there was less and less of it now, and it stank and the colour was wrong.

"I suppose they're looking for us?" "I suppose so but they wouldn't have a clue where we are really" "No." "No planes or helicopters or anything though" "No."

By now they weren't feeling so good. They weren't strong enough to bounce the car, it had to be jacked up, pushed off the jack and lined up. Sometimes that took four or five goes before the line was useable. The last jerry can had been emptied into the petrol tank a while ago. Neither one said anything to the other but both of them knew they weren't going much further. The moon was on the horizon, there were stars beginning to appear, twinkling, night was on the way and suddenly the truck was climbing a really steep and man made slope. The big balloon tyres on the back of the Toyota gripped the tarmac, crossed the white line and bounced past the petrol pumps by the café.

Tony had the head start because he was sitting on the tailgate but Chris wasn't far behind. He hadn't bothered to lock the car and he heard Tony. "Any chance of a cup of tea?" he asked the man behind the counter, "Tea, Cha, Char, Chai - Good God man don't you understand your own bloody language?
 
Nothing to do with Spain but have a look at my blogs at http://lifeincartagena.blogspot.com or http://lifeinculebron.blogspot.com for something that is 


On the straight and narrow

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris

FEVE train in Cartagena

I'm living in Cartagena at the moment and when I came across the local narrow gauge railway just next door to the more conventional train station it set me researching. I apologise now to all the train buffs who spot the many generalisations in this entry


Rice with rabbit and snails

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris

Rice

We went out for lunch with some old pals today and we went to a reasonably decent restaurant in town. We had, probably, the most traditional meal in Pinoso and I was a bit surprised when it seemed to be something a bit out of the ordinary for them. 

Then I checked my blog and found that I've only once made reference to it once, here. A wrong to be righted.
Rice, cooked in a paella pan is a standard meal all over Spain, all over the World come to that, but the famous paella, the one from Valencia usually has prawns, other seafood and chicken. The one in these here parts comes with rabbit and snails. The meal in and around Pinoso goes something like this.
First you choose an assortment of bits and bats to start that are put on the table for everyone to share. Toasted and oiled bread served with some alli olli and grated tomato, salad, olives and nuts come more or less as standard. The rest will be to your choice, whatever they have on today plus some staples, usually things like small fried squid, clams, dry cured ham and cheese or, one of my partner's favourites, deep fried cheese with tomato jam.
The freshly cooked rice itself will be served with a flourish. The big paella pan will be placed in the centre of the table on a scorched mat or holder of some kind or if there are a lot of you it will be popped onto a small stand placed beside the main table. It is essential that you make appropriate cooing noises at this point. If the pan is on the table you will be asked if you want plates as it often makes sense to eat directly from the pan (more room for the wine glasses!) Throughout the meal each passing waiter will check that the food is good. The appropriate and only answer is smashing - "Muy rico!"
The main course despatched there is the regular range of puddings. Once upon a time the choice was flan (creme caramel), ice cream or seasonal fruit but nowadays it's just like going to a Harvester in that the pudding list is extensive and sickly sweet.
At coffee time though there are a couple of last minute flourishes. Normally they will plonk a bottle of smeet wine, Moscatel or Mistela on the table though today we got Fondillon - thick, syrupy sweet wines. Sometimes, often, you are offered an alternative like Orujo de Hierbas - a spirit distilled from the left over pulp of wine making grapes flavoured with herbs - even better when you get offered both. Along with the digestif come perusas. My partner calls them dust cakes. A sort of individual sized sweet bready cake full of bubbles and dusted with caster sugar.
And that's it. A light snack that, along with the habitual after meal conversation will take you from the normal sit down time of 2pm to around 4 or 4.30pm. Only a couple of hours to go before you can get yourself a few tapas to hold off the inevitable hunger pangs before you chow down to your evening meal at around 10pm.


The Penninsular War

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris

Almeida

Historically it's not often that we British are on the same side as the Spanish. We've been allies with the Portuguese since 1373 though. Odd then, that at the beginning of the 19th Century British, Portuguese and Spanish troops fought shoulder to shoulder against the common enemy. We Britons call it the Penninsular War the Spanish call it the War of Independence.


On museums

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris
Roman Museum Merida
My wife, Maggie, and I had just come back from Mérida in Extremadura. In a blog I write on Google (link at the bottom of my signature in the forum posts or just Google life in ciudad rodrigo) I'd mentioned the Roman Museum that we'd visited there. As I set down to write my personal diary I was just about to echo the words I'd used in the blog post about  "the Splendid Roman Museum" or more accurately the Museo Nacional de Arte Romano. As I wrote I was thinking forward to how to describe the trip around the monastery at Guadalupe that we'd done after the Roman stuff and my pen hovered.
 
In some ways the Roman museum wasn't that good. The building was great, the display was uncluttered, the labelling was relatively informative but there was no context - nothing about the place that art took within Roman society, nothing about artists, nothing about technique, nothing about changing styles over the centuries, no interactive displays, no opportunity to try your hand at something. And the shop was a joke; shops are obviously about making profit for the museums but, alongside the T shirts are the books and DVDs that continue the work of the museum. Not in Mérida they didn't. Not in Spain they don't.

The Guadalupe Monastery tour was much more Spanish. A guide ushered a party of maybe 50 people into some space. She started talking before the last people at the back were in place. She was competing for the Fanny Craddock and Patrick Moore Speed Talking Award. Most explanations consisted of a date, a name and a fact. This crucifix was carved by Michelangelo in 1523. Christopher Columbus received a letter here from Isabel and Ferdinand in 1491 granting him permission to sail to the Indies. Sometimes the facts were interesting enough, did you know, for instance, that one of those illustrated books that monks used to spend their time colouring weighs in at around 70kgs which is why the books are fitted with wheels? But again, no context; nothing about the daily life of a monk, nothing about why they were colouring books or what place the books had within the monastery or a wider context. And why was Cristóbal Colón (that's Columbus to you and me) in Guadalupe anyway?

More than 30 years ago I did a tour around St Peter's in Rome. The story about Michelangelo's work there, on the dome, has stuck with me all this time. In Versailles, in a room a bit short of furniture, the guide made up for it by describing what the room would have contained and why it would have been like that given the social and political setting at the time. Someone who took me around Peterborough Cathedral told me about how the masons worked and left me with something to remind me of that story every time I search for their marks in the stone.

When I wrote this I realised that, with one possible exception, I've never actually been to a good Spanish museum. Lots of them are fine but in most of them the owners don't really want to give away too much information. The possible exception, that I've come across so far, is the Palm Museum in Elche which has videos of men shinning up palm trees to explain what they did in each season, working models of irrigation systems and lots more in a similar vein. It's quite a small museum but at least someone thought about what it was trying to demonstrate rather than just popping a few things in some cases. I hope, I'm sure, there are other good ones too. I just haven't found them yet.
 

Welcoming the prostitutes home

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris
Lunes de Aguas
 
Shocking I know but on Monday we celebrated the return of the prostitutes to the provincial capital of Salamanca. A tradition that seems to have spread to our own little town - we did it by going down to the river and having a picnic the main element of which was a local pie stuffed full of bits of pig. Actually we ate our hornazo in the kitchen but we were by the River Águeda in spirit and we did go to stare at the picnicers a little later in the afternoon to show solidarity.

Apparently, back in the 16th Century Philip II (the one who got his beard singed by Drake) decreed that the prostitutes from the town brothel in Salamanca should be shifted across the river Tormes for the whole of Lent to ensure that the menfolk remained chaste. The women were put under the care of a priest, un Padre, who became known as Padre Putas (Father Whores) - it's quite amusing in Spanish but it loses something in the translation I feel. The women were allowed back into the city on the second Monday after Easter Sunday and the students went to meet them with plenty of food and drink as they were rowed back across the river. 

Randy students no longer have to wait for the Lunes de Aguas for sex and as most of the prostitution in Spain is now run by Eastern European and Latin American gangs I suspect the work routine of the prostitutes is pretty much unaffected by Lent. Nonetheless, the feasting still remains, at least symbolically.

The day is called Lunes de Aguas which only seems to translate as Monday of Waters and I can't find out why - maybe it's to do with crossing the water of the River Tormes.

This item is copied directly from my blog, the address of which is at the bottom of my forum posts, or you can find it with googling life in ciudad rodrigo.

pet dogs

Posted by: Angela in dogs on

Angela

Hi,

We are moving to just outside Pinoso at the end of May with our 3 pet dogs.  We are very concerned that we are hearing that our 2 Dobermanns (5 years old) may be classed as 'potentially dangerous dogs', with restrictions, muzzles etc..  Does anyone have any information/advice for us ?  Our 'new life plan' is intended to include all of us.  All our dogs are pets who live happily with us, not just the 'cute, small 1 year old Springer Spaniel', our Dobermanns are friendly, obedient dogs, so I would appreciate any comments from anyone.


Heading for Ciudad Rodrigo

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris

Ciudad Rodrigo

Ciudad Rodrigo is a grand place to pass a day: big impressive buildings, history oozing through the streets, great pavement bars with tasty tapas and, to crown it all the prices are really low. There is one tiny problem though, well it's a problem if you live in Alicante or Murcia, Ciudad Rodrigo is on the other side of Spain in Salamanca province!


La Via de la Plata

Posted by: Culebronchris in Untagged  on

Culebronchris
santos_and_la_via_de_la_plata_0006.jpg

I don't know if you have ever found yourself musing on something. Anidle thought drifts into your mind. It happens to me when I'm mopping, or gardening or ironing which, when I think about it must mean that it happens tome very rarely!  But take an example. In the UK, before the coming of the railways there was no agreed time. There didn't need to be really. You knew when to get up and when to go to bed and how you measured the space in between was up to you, or the local church clock. 

The thing that set me thinking was a description of the Via de la Platain a book I read about a district called Entresierras, close to where I live in Salamanca My Spanish isn't up to much but an obvious translation was the Silver Route. Except it isn't - the plata in this case isn't from the Spanish for silver but in Latin meaning paved. The Via de la Plata is an old Roman Road that goes from Extremadura, in the South West of Spain to Astorga in Leon.


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